Rijksmuseum/Van Gogh

Oh my gosh!!! I saw so many iconic paintings today! I’m honestly still a little in shock that we got to visit both the Rijksmuseum and the Vincent van Gogh museum. I actually stood in front of Rembrandt’s Night Watch and Van Gogh’s Sunflowers.

In the Rijksmuseum, for some reason unknown to me, one of the paintings stood out among the hundreds we saw. There were, of course, the masterpieces like The Night Watch, that aren’t really comparable due to their significance, but among the others, Still Life with Cheeses by Floris van Dijk was a favorite of mine. Our guide, Pim, explained that the stages of the aging cheese were an allegory for life, and how we all eventually end up as a dark, very aged cheese. That’s all well and good, and definitely important, but I was struck by the sheer attention to detail in the piece. I could see lines in the wheels of cheese where the knife had shifted while cutting; the water in the glass was both transparent and reflective. That someone could capture all this in physical paint on a canvas just blew my mind. It honestly looked like a photograph at first. This sort of hyper-realism isn’t exactly the contemporary fashion anymore, but it’s always astonishing to observe.

On the other end of the spectrum is one of my favorite paintings in the world, Irises, by Vincent van Gogh. It was painted in the last few years of his life, while he was living in an asylum for the mentally ill. I’ve always felt a strong connection with Van Gogh and his struggle with mental illness and depression, and to see his work so loved and appreciated, even though it is long after his death, is really meaningful for me. Not to mention, he really is a master. He took what he knew and observed in others and used it to create his own, truly unique style. This is especially apparent in Irises, which was painted long after he figured out his own way of painting and looking at the world. Even though he has lived a life of pain and obscurity, he painted beauty and innocence. The irises appear both strong and delicate, and though some are bent and fallen, the majority stand tall. By turning in every direction, there is a quiet dynamism. Even the colors exude a solidity of sorts; the combination of blue and yellow is bright and brings to mind a feeling of comfort. That he could paint something so excellent during his time in Saint Paul-de-Mausole really speaks to his skill and talent.

Free day!

Yesterday morning, we had the opportunity to hear from Lillian’s friend, Christine, and ask her a few of our questions. She was very helpful and informative, letting us know where some of her favorite spots in the center of Ghent were, and even showing us around the city center to see some “hidden corners.” It was particularly nice to hear some of her views on contemporary issues in the world, and expand my own understanding of how they might be seen by the rest of the world. So often we get stuck in these bubbles, only hearing our own opinions repeated back to us, and forget that there are definitely contrasting opinions and perspectives from all around the world. I really like to expose myself to differing points of view to avoid that feedback loop, and hearing from someone living in an entirely different political climate definitely furthered that goal.

After Christine took her leave, we had some absolutely amazing waffles. In fact, probably the best waffle I’ve ever had. Light and airy, with a crispy outside. I don’t think I can eat American waffles anymore.

Then, following lunch, I explored the city center a little more with Maddie and Bailey. We bought chocolate (from Christine’s favorite spot) and went to a store devoted entirely to honey. When we asked the girl working at the counter where the bees were from, she replied with “Everywhere but Belgium.” Even so, I picked up some honey infused with Belgian chocolate. The definite highlight of the day, though, was the ferris wheel ride. They still had it up from the Christmas market, and for only 6 euros, we got a view of the whole city of Ghent. Even through the fog, it was gorgeous. The first cycle, all I did was take pictures. And even though Bailey was a little nervous at first, the three of us definitely had a good time.

Surrealism and Impressionism

I loved this museum. I spent literally all my time in one area, and I want very badly to go back and explore the rest, but I’m so happy I got to see what I did. Surrealism and expressionism are two of my favorite areas of art, and after seeing a lot of classics and flemish masters, it was really good to get back to those. As much as I love and appreciate the beauty of realism, I love visual representation of feeling. Among masters like Kirchner, I even discovered a new favorite artist while exploring this area; I found myself going up to paintings, thinking “Oh! I like this one!” and the majority of them ended up being by Gustave Van de Woestyne. The eyes were huge and expressive, and I could really feel the intention behind the paint.

One piece in particular really caught my attention. It was dynamic and blunt and I loved it. Christ Showing his Wounds. Christ is depicted with raised hands, displaying his cuts from the crucifixion. Whenever his arms were in my periphery, they looked like they were in the process of moving up, and his eyes were just enrapturing. While I don’t consider myself a profoundly religious person, I was connected to this painting. I can admire the beauty of a classic all day long, but I’m a sucker for paintings that show me emotion. There’s something about his expression, full of calmness and serenity, that puts me at peace. I probably spent a good five minutes just examining all the details I could find. I hadn’t even realized how much time I had spent in that section alone until I happened to look down at my watch and saw I had 20 minutes left. I searched forever among the postcards for a smaller version of the painting, but sadly, could not find one. Even so, I’m really glad we got to visit this museum. As a whole, the trip to the Fine Arts museum was one of my favorites. To me, art museums are a place for quiet and reflection, and I got exactly that while we were here.

Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child

After studying the work of the Monuments Men this semester, I was thrilled at the idea of seeing the Bruges Madonna. In fact, seeing her was probably at the top of my list of things I had to do while here. There are so many testimonies to her beauty, her perfection, that I wanted to experience viewing her in person, without the subjective nature of a photograph in the way.

The only work of Michelangelo to leave Italy during his lifetime, stolen twice throughout history, was within my sight today. I was standing maybe 20 feet away from a work that people have dedicated their lives to recovering or restoring. Honestly, I was awestruck. After so much interest and study, I had finally been given the chance to view it with my own eyes, in person, through no one’s lens but my own. The Madonna looking down, somberly, away from Christ, who appears ready to embark on his own. Even through protective glass a fair amount of space, she was striking. I was lost in the detail of the cloth, the expressiveness of her face, and even the body language of the figure. I wanted to remember every detail, but first, I had to find, notice, and acknowledge them all with the respect they were due. The sheer reverence of the space, bolstered by music and a profound silence, left me without words.

Even as we walked away, I felt myself trailing behind, still looking into Mary’s eyes, hoping to catch something I hadn’t yet seen.

Ruysch and Rembrandt

My entry for today is not a reflection of one, but two images. The first, I sadly did not have the chance to view in person.

I specifically asked to find the work Vase of Flowers by Rachel Ruysch, the only female artist available for us to view, because women’s representation in history is often lacking. My experience today further proved that point, as the painting has mysteriously disappeared. One guide led us to a similar painting done by a man, and another wasn’t sure where it was altogether. There was one, one female artist with a work on display, and no one was quite sure what had happened to it. It had probably been taken down, or possibly moved. After searching for nearly the entirety of our time at the museum and enlisting the help of Lillian, Vicki, and those few guides, it was time to move on. I was sad to leave without seeing it, but I learned something important. I will make it a priority for women to be adequately represented in art, as artists, wherever I have the ability to do so.

On the flip side, I did spend the last fifteen minutes observing a beautiful Rembrandt portrait, that of Nicolaas van Bambeeck, as a sort of alternate assignment. I’m definitely not the most learned in art technique and composition, but I know a gorgeous piece when I see one. I was struck by the intricate detail on the lace collar, and the expressive eyes. I didn’t feel that this was an idealized picture of a man; I felt that I was looking at a real, genuine person. Something about the crook of the nose, the softer jawline, the minor imperfections made the portrait very much real to me. The work entranced me, even though it is a portrait of a man I have never known and never will know. I’m still disappointed that I missed out on viewing Ruysch’s work in person, but I’m happy that I ended up having the opportunity to really view this one.

Introduction!

Hello! I’m Holly Alexander, and I am a freshman studying Recreation Management. After school, I plan on traveling and spending lots of time outdoors, hopefully as an instructor for an Outdoor Recreation non-profit or government institution. I’ve been to Europe only once before, in Germany. It was a monumental experience that taught me just how simultaneously draining and rewarding travel can be, and I’ve been craving that experience since then. That was almost three years ago now, so I’m very excited to be on this trip!

For our class, I researched Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Man. Through that project and our class as a whole, I’ve been thinking more and more about my own personal connection to artwork. The most exciting thing about this trip is getting to see the artwork we’ve studied so closely in person. I’m particularly excited to see the Bruges Madonna, after all the discussion of it in the book. Other than artwork, I’m very excited to be cold. It’s entirely too hot in Raleigh to be January, and I’d like for my face to hurt from the cold for a bit. I’m also excited to try a whole bunch of chocolate and waffles, and to spend entirely too much money on souvenirs and coffee. I can’t wait to get traveling!